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This is the second in a two-part series on the preparation and installation of porcelain tile for a shower or tub surround. This project was performed in a bathroom somewhere in Arkansas. The structure is wood frame construction. Start from the beginning with the wall preparation article here, or follow along as this project is completed with beautiful tile and accessories.

In part 1, the preparations finished up with the application of Laticrete 9235. After the 9235 is completely dry, usually overnight, I start with the first row of tiles. Getting the first row level is extremely important since successive rows will sit on top. I did the back wall first so that the cuts in the corner are not as noticeable. After the first row is complete, I use a spacer board the appropriate width to allow for the glass and stone listello that will be installed later. The weight of the tile holds the boards in place. Be sure that the width of the board allows for the listello and a little bit of grout on either side. Making sure the boards are all the exact same width ensures that the tiles will stay level.

These tiles are rather large 18×18 porcelain. I skim-coated the walls with thinset, then combed thinset on the back of each tile with a ¼x⅜x¼” trowel for maximum coverage. I used good quality Stanley levels (one 4′, one 2′) to keep everything in line. I also used plastic Tile Spikes to help level the first row, and on some of the subsequent rows. If you install much tile, you’ll find that very often tile is not consistent in size. The spikes help make up for these inconsistencies. I also made cutouts in the corners for two soap dishes that will be added later.

After the tile has set overnight, the boards are carefully removed. The listello used here came in 12×12 sheets mounted on mesh. The sheets were cut into  three  equal  strips,  then  mounted on the wall with thinset using the same trowel as before. I then use a grout float to push the tile into the thinset and  keep  everything flat. A few more tile spikes were used to keep them from sagging until the thinset dried. I also mounted the two soap dishes, using thinset and packing  tape  to hold them up until the thinset dried. I used a small torpedo level to make sure the dishes were sloped very slightly so that water would run off. I also installed the bullnose tile at this stage (not shown).

Now that all the tile is up and the thinset has had the chance to dry overnight, I move on to grouting. I decided to use two different color grouts to make the listello stand out more. I put masking tape over the grout joints of the 18×18 tile where it meets the listello to keep grout from getting in. I then grout the listello with unsanded Mapei Chamois grout. Unsanded grout is used when the grout joints are ⅛” wide or smaller. The next day, I use the darker sanded  Mapei  Mocha  grout  for the larger tiles, being careful not to get this darker grout on the listello. I let the grout dry overnight before putting on the
final touches.

There is a small gap at the ceiling and, because of the thick layer of thinset, a gap between the bullnose tile and the drywall. At the ceiling, I used acrylic latex caulk, which matches the paint on the ceiling. If the ceiling is a color other than white, the caulk can be painted, or another color of caulk can be used. Since this area won’t see any significant moisture, it’s okay to use the less expensive paintable caulk. If the gaps are wide, you can use strips of foam backer rod to fill the gap before caulking. This will keep you from having to use too much caulk, which causes the caulk to shrink and crack when it dries.

I used white silicone to caulk between the tub and tile. The silicone matches the tub, and will hold up better than acrylic latex caulk. Silicone is more flexible, but more importantly, it resists moisture better than non-silicone caulks. I also re-installed the shower  door. Since I furred out the walls, the opening is now a little smaller, so I had to cut some of the metal framing down. I used clear silicone to seal off the frame and keep water from getting out. I used masonry bits to drill holes into the walls, then I used drywall anchors and screws to mount the two side pieces. Silicone is also used to hold the bottom door track onto the tub. Never drill into the tub to mount the door track. If you drill holes into the tub, eventually it will leak and cause problems.

The valve trim pieces and tub spout are replaced as is the shower head. The tub is ready for use now that the silicone has been allowed to dry overnight. I’ll need to do some drywall work on both sides of the shower, but that won’t affect the use of the shower.

This completes the porcelain tile surround for this tub. You can do this yourself by following these guidelines, or you can call a tile professional for a worry-free job that will last you a lifetime. If you would like an estimate on doing your tile project, please contact me for a quality professional job.